Oh man, do I love Philadelphia. Prior to this weekend, I would have ranked Philly somewhere around Baltimore in terms of cities I liked. That is, just fine, but perhaps a too gritty and industrial for me to honestly and fully adore. But that perception of course, was due more to ignorance than anything else. I was simply unaware of all the city had to offer. Here's a brief blow-by-blow of our weekend.
We left DC around noon on Saturday, thinking we'd get into Philly at 2:30 at the very latest and have plenty of time to check in to our hotel and explore the city. What we didn't anticipate was the traffic we'd encounter at 95 and the fact that we'd sit in a near-standstill cluster-f*ck for 3 hours due to the fact that they had reduced a small section of the highway down to one lane. Not that sitting in traffic with 47 was so terrible. We had plenty to talk about in terms of stories from our pasts to amuse one another with. Problem is, we hadn't thought to pack any snacks and hadn't eaten much by way of breakfast due to the huge cheese stakes we thought we'd be eating around 4:00 pm. As our stomachs rumbled and my blood sugar started to crash, we quickly brainstormed eating options.
My companion decided that the best possible reward for sitting in traffic for 3 hours would be an upscale avant guard meal of Japanese food, so 47 suggested that I call Morimoto to scope out the reservation scene. After obtaining the number of the restaurant from information I was presented with two choices: reservation at the sushi bar at 5:30 or reservation at the sushi bar at 10:30. We opted for the former and crossed our fingers that we'd get there on time. In spite of missing our exit, we managed to get to Morimoto at exactly 5:35.
Walking into Morimoto is like finding yourself on another planet. I can't be certain what the intended decorating scheme of the establishment was, but to me it looked like the inside of a gigantic sea shell with lots of white decorative details and natural wood. The sushi bar was made from apple green colored glass and provided an excellent view of the chef's station. This was especially enjoyable for 47, as he's chatty by nature and really likes to talk to sushi chefs. Since he's more of an expert on the foods of exotic cultures I let him take care of the ordering. In his typical go-big-or-go-home fashion, he decided we should go for the multi-course tasting menu wherein they brought us out course-upon-course of the most interesting, innovative and mind-bending foods I'd seen in quite a long time. The wait staff was consistently friendly and helpful, and they even printed out directions for us to various cheese steak places should we have a hankering for a snack later in the night. So friendly and outgoing were they that I thought I had been mistakenly identified as a celebrity. As wonderful as the service, food and decor were, the best aspect of the situation was the quality of adventure that it took on. To think that an hour before we had been stuck in traffic and growing crankier by the minute, whereas as we were then dining on Fatty Toro and Kobe beef made me feel like the luckiest woman in the world. On occasion, 47 would lightly rub my back as we ate, lulling me into a deeply satisfying feeling of calm and protectedness. The meal was rounded out by two flutes of complimentary champagne garnished with balls of melon sorbet that melted into the liquid, giving it the smoothness of a fizzy, alcoholic smoothie.
After finding our hotel, located in the Rittenhouse square area, we took a walk around the neighborhood in search of a pub where we could observe local night life and knock back a couple of beverages. Upon finding the square itself we weren't sure how to proceed. It looked somewhat dark and we didn't know if it would be safe to explore. Was Rittenhouse square a popular after-dark hangout, or would entering into it constitute a rookie error of disastrous proportions? Feeling brave, and noting that the group ahead of us entering the square was pushing a baby carriage, we decided we'd be fine. Walking through it, we were impressed with its beauty and the diversity of folks hanging out enjoying the crisp evening air. We wished DC had something similar, as the National Mall isn't nearly as green or pretty. As beautiful as the square was, we quickly identified one small issue with the area--very few fun bars.
Feeling limited in options, we settled for a Irish-looking pub that although loud, had two available seats at the bar. While at first we were unimpressed, the establishment grew on us after a couple of drinks. We each made friends outside during our various cigarette runs, and although our fellow patrons bumped into us as if oblivious to the concept of personal space, we were generally pleased with the company we found there. In general, I liked the Northerness of the people we met at the pub. I also appreciated the fact that most of the women there had taken a laid-back approach to their dress and I didn't feel like a schlump because I wasn't wearing stilettos or a trendy outfit. I also noticed that the men I encountered were extremely friendly and not nearly as egotistical or standoffish as those that I sometimes come across in DC. In all, it was a good scene.
As midnight rolled around 47 became increasingly obsessed with the concept of a cheese steak late-night-snack. Although not particularly hungry, I agreed to play along. Per the suggestions of multiple people we decided on Pats, which was located far enough away that we required a cab to take us there. Arriving at Pat's we found what looked like a prohibitively long line, but after standing there for 5 minutes we noted it was moving very quickly and that at least a hundred people had formed in line behind us in the meantime. We made friends with some locals standing behind us, and they were quite helpful in telling us what to order and even what lingo to use when doing so. I ordered a cheese steak without(onions) with provolone cheese. For the sake of authenticity, 47 decided to go for a cheese steak with (onions) with Cheez Whiz. We wolfed them down within a matter of minutes, and 47 began to debate the merits of having another. With a stomach unaccustomed to large volumes of heavy meat and grease, all I really wanted to do was go back to the hotel and lie down. Luckily, the line was long and we were cold, so my companion agreed to go forgo a second sandwich in favor of a drink at the hotel bar.
Did you know that hotel bars don't care if you order a drink and take it back up to your room? At least that's what 47 claimed, and nobody tried to stop us when we did so. After finishing off a snifter of Cognac and playing with the controls on our Sleep Number bed for a while (really fun, although the inflate mechanism on that thing was loud!) we drifted off to sleep.
I had to be back in DC by 3:00 pm for new roommate stuff so the rest of our time in Philly was limited. We had brunch at a Dim Sum place in Chinatown where we ordered enough food to feed a million starving Ethiopian babies. Between that and the cheese steak still lingering in my stomach from the night before, I could barley walk by the time we left. We hopped into 47's Land Cruiser and navigated our way back to DC. I arrived back in DC 45 minute late for the second round of new roommate interviews, but found my roommates expertly holding down the fort, and waiting with a spread of wine and beer to soothe my travel-worn nerves.
It's been said that traveling is a great litmus test for the strength of any relationship. Although we hit a couple snags in our plans, the overall mood of the trip was that of adventure, romance and the thrill of the unknown. Much like our relationship as it actually is. By in large, I felt enormously lucky and well cared for every moment of our journey. Just simply blessed. By the individual I was with, the experiences that crossed my path and the reminder that enriching experiences are always waiting to be discovered if you're willing to look for and open yourself up to them.
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